Mount Rainier: Gib Ledges to Fuhrer Finger.

The Fuhrer Finger, just left of the sunlit rocky ridge.

Exploring new routes on Mount Rainier is an exciting challenge.  This trip Matt and I were joined on our Cascade crusade by some friends from Tahoe, Corey Champage, Mike Carkill and Eric Seel who had never been on the peak.  They were psyched to say the least.

We wanted to get on the mountain and try to ski as soon as we could, but our weather window looked marginal.  We packed our bags, loaded Mike's truck and set off for Paradise.  We'd camp at Muir, climb and ski if we could the next day but probably have to wait another day for the wind to die.

Matt and the author scoping the ascent route.  Photo: Eric Seel.

Clouds filtered in and out as we made our way up the Muir Snowfield.  The temperatures were perfect for skinning, but we knew it was cold up top.

At Muir the temps were cold, but the scenery was amazing as usual.  We enjoyed a hot meal and went to bed realizing if the winds didn't drop we would be waiting another day.

Mount Adams from Camp Muir.  The Tatoosh range is capped by clouds in the foreground.  Photo: Eric Seel.

With cold temps and high winds we wouldn't need to get up early.  We woke up well after dawn and the wind was still howling.  

Shifting gears, we called off our climb to the upper mountain and instead went up to scout the route. 

Matt and Zeb checkin out the route.  Photo: Eric Seel.

Wind blowing snow off the top of Rainier as we scamper back from our scouting mission.

After inspecting the Gibraltar Chute and Ledges we decided that the icefall above the chute was way too active to climb that route.  The Ledges route was in fine shape and would allow us to move fast.  And since none of our team had climbed either route, we were happy to get on something new.

A small ice fall on the Nisqually Ice Cliff.

With another cold forecast, but lower winds from the Northwest, we set out the next morning fairly late.  10 is hardly an alpine start, but who needs that when temps on top are going to be -2 Fahrenheit and the wind will be 20 mph?

Corey and Zeb top out on the Col before the Ledges.  Photo: Eric Seel.

The start of the Gibraltar Ledges route.  Photo: Eric Seel.

Above the ledges, but below the top of Gibraltar. 

Corey, Matt and Seel climbing above Gib Rock.

On top with Mt Adams in the background.

Matt skis off the top.  Great firm, winter snow.

Corey celebrates a few sweet chalk turns.

Matt looks into a deep one.

The author makes a few turns on the Nisqually Glacier.

The author dropping into the clouds on the Fuhrer Finger. Photo: Eric Seel.

Skiing out the Wilson.  We reconnected with the Nisqually Glacier and skied all the way to the Nisqually Bridge at 3,900'.  10,500'+ descent, yeehaaa!