Skiing Denali: Turns in the Messner

Jeb, Matt and Tucker skin toward the Orient Express and Messner Couloir.

After a much needed day of rest, our team set our sights on some loftier goals.  The Messner Couloir was high on the list of objectives, but the snow had looked downright dangerous during our stay at 14 camp.  With a good weather forecast, rose early (a relative term in the Alaska Range) and set out to climb the Upper Rib and ski the Orient Express.

Tucker explores a crevassed section of the lower Messner.

When we got closer to the base of the Orient, we couldn't help but notice that the snow in the Messner was looking rather enticing.  Tucker and I decided that we couldn't pass up the opportunity.  We roped up for the lower crevassed portion, crossed a few snow bridges and were into the meat of the Messner shortly after.  

Climbing the Messner was amazing.  The exposure and continuous steepness was intense.  

Tucker climbing through the choke of the Messner at around 17k feet.

When we reached the choke of the couloir, a cloud socked in around us.  We deliberated about climbing higher and decided to ski while we could still see.  Descending the Messner in a white-out was not on my list of fun things to do on Denali.  We chopped out a platform to click into our skis on and made haste.

The descent - we couldn't have asked for better snow!

Tucker laying down a turn near the base of the Messner.

After the first few icy turns, the snow got really, really good.  It was boot buckle deep powder, soft windboard and only a couple of punchy wind-affected turns.  And of course, when we were about halfway down, the clouds cleared and the day went back to blue-bird!

Blue sky appears as we descended through the choke of the couloir.

We waited for Matt and Jeb to return from the Orient and skied back to camp.  On our descent, we passed a skier named Ricardo who we had skied off the summit with two days prior (he the first Mexican to ski from the summit of Denali).  He was headed for the Messner as well.  As we prepared dinner we watched him ski the couloir.  

Everyone in camp watched in horror as he was caught in a serious avalanche just below the choke of the Messner.  He survived the ride and was able to capture it with a Go-Pro video:

This avalanche goes to show how conservative you need to be in a new range.  This was a scary experience for all of us and we were glad to have learned the lesson the easy way.  

That night we were pretty tired and ready for rest, but the weather forecast had changed for the worst.   We needed to make it off the mountain.

Denali: Ski descent from the top of North America

Matt Paul rippin' pow on the Fantasy Face above 17 camp.

After last year's stormed out attempt on 20,320' Mount McKinley, I needed another try.  This year I stepped it up a notch by bringing skis and a group of super fit skiers from Tahoe.

Our crew at 14,000' Camp.

Two weeks can be a relatively short trip for this behemoth of granite and ice, but with a high level of fitness and by acclimatizing a bit before getting on the mountain we were able to get it done.

Flying onto the Kahiltna is always amazing and with a crew that was seeing it all for the first time made it that much more fun.

Mount Foraker on our descent into Kahiltna Base Camp.

A big part of my plan was to get to 14 camp as quickly as possible to be ready for a summit push if we got a weather window.  This was a tough proposition, meaning that we would each single carry 115 pounds of gear to 14,000' in two days.

Taking a 'breather 'on the  Kahiltna Glacier at 9,500'.

Above Kahiltna Pass on the way to 11 Camp.

Jeb realizes that Denali is a cold place.  Glad I wasn't staying in that tent...

From 11 Camp, we slogged our way up to 14 Camp.  This stretch was tough with our loads, but once we were at camp it was time to relax and recover. 

Looking at the Messner Couloir from 14 Camp. Avalanche debris from the Orient Express.

Tucker Cunningham skiing from 16,300' on the West Rib.  Rippin' pow at higher altitudes was an important part of the acclimatization process...you have to do what you have to do.

The Rescue Gully from the fixed lines above 14 Camp.

The author climbing near the fixed lines.

Jeb climbing the ridge above 16,000'.

Jeb, Tucker and Matt on the ridge at close to 17,000'.

Posing in a tent site at 17 Camp on the way to the top.

Jeb and Matt climbing the Autobahn above 17 Camp.

The Team on top of North America!

Jeb grabs a few nice wind buff turns at 18,000'.

Pausing to take in the view of Foraker before descending to 17 Camp.

Descending the ridge back to 14 Camp around midnight.

We took advantage of the first weather window that came our way and summitted via the West Buttress.  This was an amazing day and we were all pumped to have gotten some amazing turns in on the way down.  Skiing at 20,000' can't get much better than this!  We were worn out but happy.  Our trip was coming to an end, but we still had another goal in mind on the mountain....