Climbing Ecuador's Volcanoes: Cotopaxi

In Ecuador, Cotopaxi is second in height only to 20,702' Chimborazo.  It's summit is 19,343' and the climbing is a staggering maze of crevasses and seracs.  Linking snowbridges and fins of ice is the only way to make it through some sections of the formidable glacier.  Sections of exposed climbing, hanging glaciers and amazing views make this volcano an exciting climb the moment you step onto the glacier.

Hail and graupel pelting us on our way to the Cotopaxi Hut.

As we ascended to the Jose F. Rivas Refugio, tall cumulus clouds collected, lighning and thunder clapped close by and it began to hail.  This is not usually the way you want to start a mountaineering trip.  We put our heads down and forged our way up.  Nearing the hut at 15,900', the hail tapered off and skies began to clear. 

Our team pulling into the Refugio.

Soon we had clear views of the mountains blanketed with a fresh layer of hail.

The next morning during our push for the summit, the hail that had greeted us on the way up to the hut reared it's ugly head once again.  The snow was loose and made every step difficult.

My team pushing hard through the crumbling snow.  

The most technical part of the climb was the large crevasse near 18,000'.  This maze took a little exploring to find a way through.

The road less traveled.

Continuing upward we were greeted with stunning views.  Just enough cloud cover to make the dawn light up orange clouds.

Hues of morning light peer over the ridge and illuminate the glacier's north face.

Above 18,000' the altitude takes affect and the slogging begins getting harder.

Hanging glaciers creeping over the volcanic rock below.

The traverse toward the summit.  The route here is a bit circuitous, as you can see from the teams on the far right of the picture.

Ice features and steep climbing make this a really fun climb.

The last pitch toward the summit.

Me with fellow RMI guide, Jake Beren on Cotopaxi's Summit.

From the summit, the void of the volcanic crater is amazing.  Looking down into this dark pit surrounded by snow-covered ice is an incredible feeling.  It has been said that Cotopaxi means "Smooth neck of the moon" and this view justifies that name.

Our tracks meandering down the glacier stand out against the untouched new snow.

A cloudless and windless, the descent was hot but beautiful.

Climbing Ecuador's 5,000m Volcanoes: Cayambe

Ecuador is a country famous for three things: the Galapagos Islands, the Amazon river and huge, glaciated volcanoes.  If you count Iliniza Sur and Norte as separate peaks, Ecuador has 10 mountains taller than 5,000m (16,400').  Guiding an Ecuador's Volcanoes trip, I was lucky to tackle two 5000+ meter peaks, Cayambe and Cotopaxi.  I'm kicking myself for not allowing a little extra time for tropical weather and water, but the volcanoes were amazing.

The ablation zone of Cayambe's Glacier.

The first mountain we climbed was Cayambe.  This mountain is bisected by the equator and it's summit towers 18,997 feet in elevation.  While the glaciers are shrinking rapidly, the mass of ice covering the summit to 16,000' is impressive. 

The first rays of morning sun peer above the horizon, illuminating the glacier above our team.

The bright white of the alpine environment contrasts with the lush greens and fertile brown hues of volcanic rock and soil below.

Freakish ice features loom in all directions creating a surreal glacial landscape.

At elevations nearing 19,000' it becomes much harder to pull enough oxygen out of the thin air.  In the last few hundred vertical feet, every exertion requires a few extra breathes.

The team traverses under an icicle covered crevasse wall at about 18,600'.

...and ascends the final steep pitch toward the summit.

Standing on top!

Descending back down the glacier it looks and feels like the Sahara.  It's ironic since we're on a massive chunk of ice, but this is some of the most intense solar radiation and heat I've experienced.  No one on our team is spared from at least one random sliver of sunburn.

The team descends the barren ice-scape.

...and we walk down to green earth and thick air.