Climbing Ecuador's Volcanoes: Cotopaxi

In Ecuador, Cotopaxi is second in height only to 20,702' Chimborazo.  It's summit is 19,343' and the climbing is a staggering maze of crevasses and seracs.  Linking snowbridges and fins of ice is the only way to make it through some sections of the formidable glacier.  Sections of exposed climbing, hanging glaciers and amazing views make this volcano an exciting climb the moment you step onto the glacier.

Hail and graupel pelting us on our way to the Cotopaxi Hut.

As we ascended to the Jose F. Rivas Refugio, tall cumulus clouds collected, lighning and thunder clapped close by and it began to hail.  This is not usually the way you want to start a mountaineering trip.  We put our heads down and forged our way up.  Nearing the hut at 15,900', the hail tapered off and skies began to clear. 

Our team pulling into the Refugio.

Soon we had clear views of the mountains blanketed with a fresh layer of hail.

The next morning during our push for the summit, the hail that had greeted us on the way up to the hut reared it's ugly head once again.  The snow was loose and made every step difficult.

My team pushing hard through the crumbling snow.  

The most technical part of the climb was the large crevasse near 18,000'.  This maze took a little exploring to find a way through.

The road less traveled.

Continuing upward we were greeted with stunning views.  Just enough cloud cover to make the dawn light up orange clouds.

Hues of morning light peer over the ridge and illuminate the glacier's north face.

Above 18,000' the altitude takes affect and the slogging begins getting harder.

Hanging glaciers creeping over the volcanic rock below.

The traverse toward the summit.  The route here is a bit circuitous, as you can see from the teams on the far right of the picture.

Ice features and steep climbing make this a really fun climb.

The last pitch toward the summit.

Me with fellow RMI guide, Jake Beren on Cotopaxi's Summit.

From the summit, the void of the volcanic crater is amazing.  Looking down into this dark pit surrounded by snow-covered ice is an incredible feeling.  It has been said that Cotopaxi means "Smooth neck of the moon" and this view justifies that name.

Our tracks meandering down the glacier stand out against the untouched new snow.

A cloudless and windless, the descent was hot but beautiful.