Tucker Cunningham, Jeb Mirzak and I went out for a day to test the conditions on this juggernaut of a peak (...maybe juggernaut is the wrong word). After looking at the pile of snow-drifted granite our skepticism in finding decent ice grew. We lackadaisically set out to find a smear or two of ice close to the snow shed to muck around on.
Our first option was completely detached from the rock and a couple light taps with a tool was all that was needed relieve the granite of the clinging ice. After dry-tooling the crack next to the former icicle, we ascended to another gully where we found this nice piece of ice:
|Enough ice to keep the tools wet!|
|A thin trickle provides a vein of ice thick enough for one tool.|
|Pulling up the final bulge- fun climbing!|
|Jeb starts out on the lower section, a few delicate icicles low with some good tool placements higher.|
|J-Lo called...she wants her sunglasses back...|
|A steep section before a two move traverse.|
|The final move of the first ice mini-climb.|
|Tucker watches the belay closely as Jeb climbs below.|
One pitch led to another and we found a whole series of small ice flows. Some were purely ice. Some were a few moves on ice then a few dry tooling moves on rock. Below, Jeb maneuvers the ice between boulders of granite.
|Jeb solos another flow about halfway up the peak.|
|Tucker follows a safe distance behind.|
|A really cool ice feature where we set up an achor before the last couple pitches.|
|The jaws of an ice monster gape open above our belay.|
|Walking off at dusk.|